Our Honeymoon: Provence Part II

Hi and welcome to another edition of “Honeymoon Wednesday.”  That’s what I’m calling it now.  Oh and is it cool if I do a day by day recap for the Paris portion of our trip?  Because I’m obsessed with that city and I think I could talk about it forever.  Anyway, today isn’t about Paris.  It’s about our last two days in Provence.

After spending a week in Avignon, we packed up our little Fiat and drove north.  To wine country!  Where we spent two nights in Vaison la Romaine — part of the Cote du Rhone region — in a duplex where the bathroom and living room were on the first floor and the bedroom, sink and shower all shared a room on the second floor… Oh and the shower didn’t have a curtain or a shower head.  Just one of those handheld things…

But the view!

IMG_5029

IMG_5028

Vaison la Romaine is made up of the lower city and the upper city.  Our hotel was at the base of the upper city and had the most awesome view of all the cute houses and vineyards below.  The first thing we did after we checked in was… EAT!  Duh 🙂  There was a little town square in the lower city, with a row of restaurants so we grabbed ourselves some lunch.  France knows how to do salads right!

IMG_5030

After I had completely gorged myself on goat cheese, we took to exploring.  We happened upon a little train doing tours of the town just as it started to drizzle so we took that as a sign and got on.  I’m not going to lie, we loved that little train.  Especially when it slowed down to a near crawl as it passed the Roman ruins and all the cars driving behind us kept honking.

IMG_1280

IMG_1282

IMG_5031

We had thought the distance from our hotel to the lower city required a car ride but after wandering around we found ourselves in the upper city and realized they maybe weren’t so far apart.  The upper city is car-free with cobblestone paths so we were able to wander around freely and eventually made our way up to an old church and then a little bit farther up, a castle!  Europe has no shortage of either of those things 🙂

IMG_5032

IMG_5033

IMG_5034

IMG_5035

IMG_5036

IMG_5037

IMG_5038

IMG_5039

Gorgeous isn’t it?  It’s all fun and games until the sun disappears, the rain starts and you’re stuck on top a mountain in a dress and flip flops.

On our second day, we took a little drive to another city called Isle-sur-la-Sorgue.  I was a little skeptical until we made it to the center of the town, where there were a billion tiny little restaurants, shops and views of the Sorgue River.  It was the cutest!  After we had spent a sufficient amount of time wandering around, we stopped at a little deli shop where we picked up some sandwiches, a salad and some mini cookies for dessert then we drove on to Roussillon and had a picnic.  Joey was none too happy to find a bunch of tiny pickles on his sandwich but I thought they were the cutest thing I’d ever seen.  Those baguette sandwiches — pretty plain with a single layer of meat, sometimes with cheese and sometimes with butter — are EVERYWHERE in both Barcelona and France.

Oh and I may or may not have shared my niçoise salad with a kitty…

IMG_4989

IMG_4997

IMG_4998

photo 1

photo 2

photo 3

On our way back, we stopped at a winery to sample some wines and buy a few bottles.  We took a Rick Steves recommendation and I was kind of disappointed in the experience.  That was my first and only winery visit but it felt kind of rehearsed and the owners turned out to be Scottish, not even French!  It seemed pretty catered toward Americans, which is great for that whole language barrier thing, but not so great if you’re looking for a more authentic experience.  Strike three for Rick!  The wine still tasted good to me, though 😛

IMG_1302

In retrospect, we probably should’ve just stayed in Avignon for the entire stay in Provence and made Vaison la Romaine and Isle-sur-la-Sorgue into day trips.  I felt there wasn’t quite enough to do there to warrant switching hotels and staying for two full days, plus both dinners we ate there were disappointing — we found the food in France to be pretty hit or miss, unfortunately.

However, then we wouldn’t have discovered the little bakery just near the town square that, despite all the other shops being empty, had a line out the door both mornings.  This was our only repeat eat and it’s because the croissant and coffee for two euros deal was too good to pass up and oh my gosh, those fresh croissants!  I die.

And that brings us to the end of our stay in Provence.  On Saturday morning we drove back to Avignon, returned our dear little Fiat and hopped on a train to Paris!  Oh and then there was that part where I dropped my brand new sunglasses between the train and the platform and Joey had to stick his arm down there to retrieve them… my hero! 🙂

Our Honeymoon: Provence Part I

Hi guys!  Happy Wednesday!

I don’t know what the weather is like where you live, but today in Colorado we are having the most beautiful fall day.  It’s 80-something degrees, the sun is out and the sky has never looked more blue against those bright yellow leaves.  I’m in love 🙂

Anyways, today I’m telling you all about the first half of our stay in Provence, France and I don’t know if it’s a combo of today’s weather, the fact that it’s Wednesday (mid-way through the week, yay!) or being able to relive our honeymoon by writing this post, but I’m feeling pretty happy today.

IMG_4807

After a few hours on the train (for the first time ever!), we landed ourselves in Nimes for a 3 hour layover before our second train took us on to Avignon.  After being in crowded and touristy Barcelona, Nimes was quite a shock to the system.  It was clean and quiet and felt so authentically French.  I was instantaneously in love.  We had to drag our suitcases around with us and it was hot, but you know what, I didn’t even mind.  Everything was straight out of a picture.  We stopped and had lunch at a little place where no one spoke English and that was the beginning of when I started to realize that the less English spoken, the better the experience!

IMG_4958

IMG_4957

IMG_4955

IMG_4959

IMG_4961

IMG_4962

IMG_4964

One train ride (and many pages of The Sun Also Rises, which I loved for the record) later, we picked up our FIAT (Joey was soooo excited!) and made it to our hotel in Avignon <— our “home base” for the first four nights.  We spent our first full day in Avignon, exploring, dodging the rain, becoming obsessed with this one duck that was twice the size of the other ducks, eating cheese (duh!) and discovering our favorite lunch time drink, kir.

IMG_4965

IMG_4969

IMG_4970

IMG_4972

IMG_4973

IMG_4975

IMG_4843

IMG_4976

IMG_4977

We read that France takes drinking and driving pretty seriously (rightly so!) so even if we took a day trip we always had dinner back in Avignon.  I wasn’t sure what to expect language-wise in restaurants but I figured my rusty French could at least get us a bottle of wine and dessert 🙂  Turns out a lot of the smaller French towns don’t speak as much English as in Barcelona (where you sit down and are given a menu in English…).

I won’t lie, it’s kind of intimidating to go somewhere that doesn’t speak the same language as you.  I won’t even tell you how many times we just wandered around hungry until we got up the courage to ask for a table in French.  But!  It was also kind of fun to decode menus or you know, just make a guess and see what comes out (which is how I ordered duck on our first night — I ended up loving it)!  By the time we got to Paris, we were old pros 🙂

IMG_4968

IMG_5009

IMG_5023

 ^^^ Best bacon of my life.  P.S. That’s fried phyllo stuffed with goat cheese.  

I died and went to heaven that day.

One night (our first), we ate at a little place that was being manned by one chef and a brother team of two waiters (I swear the one who was waiting on us was 12 years old…).  And on our last night, after almost going to that first restaurant again, we ended up at a tiny little place where a young girl was doing EVERYTHING herself.  As in serving, cooking and entertaining!  I was blown away.  Also, she served us what we’re pretty sure was squid but looked and tasted different than any squid I’ve ever had.  It was so amazing in that creamy sauce.  Oh and shots of rum to help us digest our 3-course meal.  P.S. Lots of multi-course multiple-hour meals in France.  Which is totally fine by me 🙂

IMG_4915

IMG_5024

As far as day trips go, one day we went to Les Baux, which is an old castle town with a little cobblestone town below.  We got a workout in that day.  Note to self, do not climb old stone steps in wedges and a dress… But the view from the top (over endless fields of olive trees) was pretty cool.  Afterwards, we drove to St. Remy for lunch (and an obligatory “cafe”), a stroll through the picturesque (those blue shutters!) streets and a visit to the mental hospital that Van Gogh stayed in after cutting off his ear 😛  I adored St. Remy.  It was that perfect combo of upscale and quaint.

IMG_4893

IMG_4982

IMG_4981

IMG_5010

IMG_5012

IMG_5013

IMG_5014

IMG_4892

IMG_5015

IMG_5016

On our last day before we drove up the the Cote du Rhone region, we took a trip into Arles.  I won’t lie, it was not our favorite day trip destination.  We caught it at the end of market day, and there seemed to be a lot of trash leftover from all the vendors, but!  We did have probably our best lunch of my life of the trip.  Hello, thick salty slices of bacon, plentiful goat cheese and peach kir.  I die!  I will say that once we wandered off the main road into some of the more back alleys, things got much prettier.

IMG_5019

IMG_5020

IMG_5021

IMG_4907

IMG_4906

Overall, this part of our trip was such a dream!  Sure, we sometimes accidentally ended up in restaurants surrounded by other English-speaking Americans (not as fun as being surrounded by beautifully-spoken French locals), or broke a wine glass at dinner (oops…) or had a hard time reading road signs and maps but the scenery was breathtaking, the kir was delicious, our hotel felt like home — we stayed at Hotel Colbert and loved it! — and we just had so much fun!  I would go back forever in an instant.